Bosch dishwashers are among the most reliable units in any Denver kitchen — but when something goes wrong they tell you exactly what with an E-code. This is the complete reference: every Bosch error code from E01 through E28, what each one means, the common cause, the DIY check you can safely run, and the realistic repair cost in the Denver metro for May 2026. The good news is that the two most common codes — E24 (drain) and E22 (filter) — are usually clogs you can clear yourself for free.
A Bosch E-code is a starting point, not a verdict. The DIY checks below separate the no-cost fixes from the repairs that genuinely need a technician.
Bosch Dishwasher Error Code Table (Complete)
| Code | Meaning | Common cause | Repair cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| E01 | Control board fault | Failed main control / power module | $200–$420 |
| E02 | Heat pump / motor relay fault | Wash pump motor or control relay | $250–$420 |
| E03 | Water fill / heating fault | Inlet valve or flow meter | $150–$280 |
| E04 | Water flow switch fault | Flow meter or spray-arm blockage | $120–$260 |
| E05 | Overfill fault | Inlet valve stuck open or level sensor | $150–$280 |
| E06 | Door / Aqua sensor fault | Turbidity (Aqua) sensor or door switch | $150–$280 |
| E07 | Dry-fan / turbidity fault | Drying fan motor or sensor | $150–$280 |
| E08 | Low water level fault | Underfill — supply, valve, or leak | $120–$280 |
| E09 | Heating element fault | Flow-through heater or wiring | $200–$400 |
| E11 | Temperature sensor (NTC) fault | Failed NTC sensor or wiring | $130–$250 |
| E12 | Heating element limescale | Scale buildup on heater (hard water) | $0–$280 |
| E13 | Inlet water too hot | Supply temperature above limit | $0–$150 |
| E14 | Flow sensor / reed switch fault | Flow meter reed switch | $120–$240 |
| E15 | Anti-flood (base pan flood) | Leak triggering the float safety switch | $0–$350 |
| E16 | Unwanted water inlet | Inlet valve leaking through when off | $150–$280 |
| E17 | High water inlet pressure | Supply pressure too high | $0–$150 |
| E18 | Low water inlet / flow fault | Clogged inlet screen or low supply | $0–$220 |
| E19 | Hot water valve fault | Inlet valve on hot-supply units | $150–$280 |
| E20 | Wash pump / circulation fault | Circulation pump motor or winding | $250–$420 |
| E21 | Drain pump runs continuously | Drain pump or wiring fault | $180–$300 |
| E22 | Filter clog | Blocked filter / sump screen | $0–$180 |
| E23 | Drain pump fault | Failed drain pump or stuck impeller | $180–$280 |
| E24 | Drain fault (most common) | Clogged filter, hose, or air gap | $0–$280 |
| E25 | Drain pump impeller blocked | Debris jamming the pump impeller | $0–$280 |
| E26 | Diverter / water switch fault | Diverter valve or position sensor | $180–$320 |
| E27 | Low supply voltage | House electrical supply issue | $0–$200 |
| E28 | Turbidity / Aqua sensor fault | Failed turbidity (Aqua) sensor | $150–$280 |
The Most Common Bosch Codes — Fix These First
E24 — Drain Fault (Most Common)
Meaning: The dishwasher cannot drain water at the end of the cycle. E24 is the single most common Bosch code I’m called about, and the good news is it’s usually a clog, not a failed part.
Common cause: A clogged filter, a kinked or blocked drain hose, a clogged air gap, or a high drain loop that has lost its loop.
DIY check: Pull and rinse the cylindrical filter at the bottom of the tub — this alone clears E24 most of the time. Check the drain hose for kinks behind the unit and at the under-sink connection. If you have an air gap on the countertop, pop its cap and clean it out. Confirm the garbage disposal’s knockout plug was removed if the dishwasher drains into a new disposal.
Repair cost: $0 if it’s a clog; $180–$280 if the drain pump itself has failed.
E25 — Drain Pump Impeller Blocked
Meaning: The drain pump impeller is jammed and cannot turn. E25 is closely related to E24 but points specifically at the pump.
Common cause: Broken glass, a fruit pit, a piece of label, or a small bone wedged in the impeller.
DIY check: With the dishwasher powered off, remove the filter and the sump cover, then check the pump impeller area for debris. Bosch designs the impeller to be accessible for exactly this reason. Clear the obstruction and the code usually goes away.
Repair cost: $0 if you clear the debris; $180–$280 if the impeller or pump was damaged.
E22 — Filter Clog
Meaning: The water flow through the filter system is restricted. The dishwasher detects it cannot move water properly through the sump.
Common cause: A neglected filter packed with food debris and grease — very common when the filter hasn’t been cleaned in months.
DIY check: Remove the filter, wash it under hot running water with a soft brush, and clear the sump screen underneath. Bosch recommends cleaning the filter monthly; doing so prevents E22 entirely.
Repair cost: $0 for a filter cleaning; up to $180 if the sump or a related sensor needs service.
E15 — Anti-Flood Error
Meaning: Water has collected in the base pan and tripped the float safety switch. Bosch shuts the dishwasher down to prevent a kitchen flood. The dishwasher will not run until the pan is dry.
Common cause: A leak — a worn door gasket, a cracked hose, a loose pump seal, or a spray-arm fault directing water past a seam.
DIY check: Tilt the dishwasher backward (about 45 degrees) to drain the water out of the base pan; you’ll often hear it run out. Let everything dry fully, then run a short cycle and watch for the source of the leak. E15 will not clear until both the base pan is dry and the leak is fixed.
Repair cost: $0 if it was a one-time spill; $150–$350 to repair the underlying leak source. For the full walkthrough, see our dedicated guide to the Bosch E15 error.
Decoding the Rest of the Bosch E-Codes
E01, E02, E09 — Control and Heating Faults
E01 is a main control board fault, E02 a heat-pump or motor relay fault, and E09 a heating element fault. These point to internal electrical components. Try a full reset first (see below). If the code returns, these need a technician with a meter — control boards and the Bosch flow-through heater must be matched to your exact model.
E03, E05, E08, E16, E18, E19 — Water Fill Faults
This family covers fill problems: E03 and E08 are underfill or fill-timing faults, E05 and E16 are overfill or unwanted-inlet faults, E18 is low inlet flow, and E19 is a hot-water valve fault. Start with the easy checks — make sure the supply valve is fully open, the inlet hose isn’t kinked, and the inlet screen at the valve isn’t clogged with sediment. If those are clear, the inlet valve or flow meter needs replacement.
E04, E14, E26 — Flow and Diverter Faults
E04 and E14 relate to the flow meter (the device that measures water moving through the dishwasher), and E26 is a diverter-valve fault — the diverter switches water between the upper and lower spray arms. Check for spray-arm blockages first on E04. Persistent E14 or E26 codes mean the flow meter or diverter assembly needs replacement.
E06, E07, E28 — Sensor and Drying Faults
E06 involves the door switch or Aqua (turbidity) sensor, E07 the drying fan, and E28 the turbidity sensor that measures how dirty the water is. The turbidity sensor lets Bosch adjust cycle length to load soil level; when it fails the dishwasher defaults to a fixed cycle. These are component-swap repairs for a technician.
E11, E12, E13, E17, E27 — Temperature, Scale, and Supply Faults
E11 is a failed NTC temperature sensor. E12 flags limescale buildup on the heating element — a Denver hard-water issue that often clears with a descaling cycle. E13 means the incoming water is too hot (lower your water heater or connect to the cold supply). E17 means inlet pressure is too high. E27 indicates low supply voltage — a house electrical issue, not a dishwasher fault. Several of these cost nothing to resolve once you know the cause.
E20, E21, E23 — Pump Faults
E20 is a circulation (wash) pump fault, E21 means the drain pump is running continuously, and E23 is a drain pump failure. Check for obstructions in the sump first. A genuinely failed circulation pump is the most expensive common Bosch repair at $250–$420; a drain pump is $180–$280.
How to Reset a Bosch Dishwasher
A reset clears transient codes and is always worth trying first. The standard methods:
- Cancel / drain reset: Press and hold the Start button (labeled Start or Start/Reset depending on series) for 3–5 seconds until the display clears or the cycle cancels. Let the dishwasher drain for about a minute.
- Power reset: If the code persists, switch the dishwasher off at the circuit breaker for a full 5 minutes, then restore power. This forces a clean control-board restart.
- Run a short cycle and watch for the code.
If the code does not return, it was a glitch. If the code comes back, the fault is real — move to the DIY check for that code, or call a technician. Resetting repeatedly won’t fix a clogged filter or a failed pump.
Bosch Dishwasher Series — 300, 500, 800, Benchmark
Bosch sells dishwashers in four main series in the US, and the error codes in this guide apply across all of them — the E-code system is shared. The differences are in features, not fault codes:
- 300 Series: The entry tier. Standard filtration, PureDry condensation drying. Same E-codes; fewer sensors overall.
- 500 Series: Mid-tier. Adds the third rack and AutoAir drying on many models. Turbidity-sensor codes (E06, E28) appear more often simply because more models carry the sensor.
- 800 Series: Upper tier. CrystalDry technology, more sensors, quieter operation. The full E-code set applies.
- Benchmark Series: The flagship. The most sensors and the most refined drying. Every code in the table can appear; diagnostics are identical to the 800 Series.
Whatever series you own, the meaning of an E-code is the same. The practical difference is parts cost — Benchmark and 800 Series components run a bit higher than 300 Series equivalents.
Denver Hard Water and Bosch Codes
Denver’s moderately hard water (roughly 80–150 ppm) directly drives a couple of Bosch codes. E12 (limescale on the heating element) is the obvious one — scale insulates the flow-through heater and the control flags it. Hard water also accelerates wear on the circulation pump (E20) over a decade of use. Keeping the rinse-aid reservoir filled, running a citric-acid descaling cycle every few months, and using a Bosch model’s built-in water softener where equipped all reduce hard-water-related faults.
Are Bosch Dishwasher Repairs Worth It?
Almost always. Bosch dishwashers are built for a 12–15 year service life, and parts stay available for years. Apply the 50% rule: a new Bosch dishwasher in Denver runs $750–$1,400 delivered in May 2026, so a repair under roughly $500 keeps you well inside the rule. And many Bosch codes — E22, E24, E25, E12, E18 — are clogs, supply issues, or maintenance items that cost little or nothing to clear. A genuine failed-part repair on a Bosch under 10 years old is virtually always worth doing. For the full cost breakdown see our dishwasher repair cost guide, and if you’re comparing brands, our Bosch vs Miele dishwasher comparison.
Bosch dishwasher showing an E-code? Call (720) 447-8577 with the exact code, your model number, and the series. I’ll tell you whether it’s a DIY clog fix or a real repair and quote a tight range over the phone. $75 diagnostic, waived with repair. 1-year warranty on parts and labor.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does E24 mean on a Bosch dishwasher?
E24 is the most common Bosch dishwasher error code. It means the dishwasher cannot drain. The usual causes are a clogged filter, a blocked or kinked drain hose, a clogged air gap, or debris jamming the drain pump. Start by cleaning the filter and checking the hose. If the dishwasher still won’t drain, the drain pump may need replacement at $180–$280.
What does E15 mean on a Bosch dishwasher and how do I fix it?
E15 is the Bosch anti-flood error. Water has collected in the base pan and triggered the float safety switch, which shuts the dishwasher down to prevent a flood. To clear it, tilt the dishwasher back to drain the base pan, then find and fix the leak source. The dishwasher will not run again until the base pan is dry and the float resets.
How do I reset a Bosch dishwasher?
On most Bosch dishwashers, press and hold the Start button for 3–5 seconds until the display clears or the cycle cancels, then let it drain. For a full reset, turn off the dishwasher at the circuit breaker for 5 minutes, then restore power. A reset clears a transient code, but if the underlying fault remains the code returns.
What is the most common Bosch dishwasher error code?
E24, the drain fault, is the most common Bosch dishwasher error code. It is usually caused by a clogged filter or drain hose rather than a failed part, so it is often fixable without a technician. E22 (filter clog) and E15 (anti-flood) are the next most common.
Are Bosch dishwasher repairs worth it?
Usually yes. Bosch dishwashers are built for 12–15 year service lives and parts stay available for years. Most error-code repairs run $150–$500, which is well within the 50% rule against a $750–$1,400 Bosch replacement. Many codes such as E22 and E24 are clog-related and cost little or nothing to clear.
About Easy Appliances Repair
I’m Victor, owner-operator. EPA 608 Universal certified, 10+ years repairing Bosch dishwashers — 300, 500, 800, and Benchmark series — across Denver and the south metro, with a 5.0-star rating across 121 reviews. I diagnose Bosch E-codes daily and back every repair with a 1-year parts-and-labor warranty. See our full Bosch dishwasher repair page and dishwasher repair service. Coverage area: Denver, Highlands Ranch, Littleton, Centennial, Aurora, Parker, Castle Rock, and the rest of the south metro.